The Chef’s Table – Radiance of the Seas

We returned from a month in the states for one day of laundry and bill-paying before jetting off to Sydney and a taste of new age cruising on Royal Caribbean’s latest behemoth to base in Sydney for the summer – the newly refurbished Radiance of the Seas.

I pity those diners who risk a booking in Peter Gilmore’s outstanding Quay Restaurant in the Overseas Passenger Terminal on Sydney’s Circular Quay. Yes, the fare, service and ambience are world class (#26 on S. Pellegrino’s 50 world’s best restaurants) but the Russian roulette of snaring a table those nights a huge ocean liner isn’t blocking the iconic view must be a limiting factor in getting bums on all seats.

Hosted by the local Royal Caribbean operation, it’s our mission to join about 2400 of our closest personal travel industry mates – assorted travel agents, industry captains and travel media types, for a 2 night cruise to nowhere and nothing will stay us from the course.

My first impression of Radiance of the Seas (if you disregard the immensity of the craft) is a feeling of ‘lightness’ and airiness generally untypical of my experience of ocean-going cruise liners.

On arrival at our designated cabin – a balcony stateroom on Deck Seven – I was delighted to find a personalised invitation by Royal Caribbean’s ebullient MD Gavin Smith for Michelle and I to join he and twelve other lucky guests  to experience a five course degustation dinner prepared by the ship’s Chef de Cuisine with wine pairings selected by the group’s somellier.

Specialty dining packages are a Royal Caribbean Lines initiative to add further value to the cruise market by offering unique, premium dining experiences in addition to the standard set pieces and the Chef’s Table is at the pinnacle of their offering. It would have been churlish to knock back the invitation so we changed into our finest and descended to deck Six.

Henry Richard, Sous Chef and Rathan Noronha, Sommelier

Henry Richard, Sous Chef and Rathan Noronha, Sommelier

Cocktails in the Colony Club smoothed the introductions to our fellow diners and we were led into a cosy enclave that may well have been a private gambling den in a previous life. The table was set with fine flatware and sparkling crystal; and Sous Chef Henry Richard and Sommelier Rathan Noronha waited calmly to introduce our feast.

Entree

Lobster and Alaskan King Crab Leg Salad; pear-grapefruit slaw, citrus dressing, micro greens

Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ

Crisp and assertive, light to medium bodied aromatic wine with intense aromas of gooseberry, passion fruit and citrus flavours. Great match to salad and not heavy enough to overshadow the delicate protein.

Soup

Trio: Green pea bisque, double oxtail consomme, porcini mushroom

Meiomi Pinot Noir, Petaluma Gap, Sonoma Ca USA

The wine is blended from three different regions in California,  Santa Barbara County, Sonoma Coast and Monterey County. Silky and smooth, full of fig, blackberry and baking spices like clove and vanilla. A great food wine, though fairly untypical of Californian PNs.

Appetiser

Chinese-style Duck Roll; crispy crepe tempura, hoisin reduction

Bride of the Fox Sake

A fragrant, crisp, and pure sake from rice grown on Japan’s high plains and pure mountain water, both rich in aroma and clean in taste. At first I was a little apprehensive about the potential Sino-Japanese culture clash, but the Bride of the Fox was a harmonious partner to the crepe.

Apparently the name was inspired by local legends about mysterious lights that appeared on  Mt. Kirin in the distant past. Locals claim the lights are paper lanterns carried in the fox-bride procession. This mysterious event is celebrated nationwide every year in the fox-bride festival.

Main

Roasted Double Lamb Cutlet; potato-pancetta risotto, broccolini, port wine glaze

Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley Ca USA

Hints of nutmeg and vanilla morph into a silky, smooth finish. The tannins are strong, leading to a palate-pleaser that is perfect for special occasions. It has that smoky finish that is becoming synonymous with Napa cabernet sauvignons of late, mature and complex without being over-blended but it’s hardly spicy enough to upset the blackberry, cherry and grape balance.

Dessert

Warm Granny Smith Apple, Pecan and Pine Nut Torte; green apple gelato, calvados-whipped cream

Errazuriz Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley, Chile

Bright golden yellow colour and a refreshing style for  such a style . Citrus notes stand out with fruit such as apricots and papaya, elegant oral notes and ginger-like tones. Smooth textured on the palate a creaminess that balances the crispness from its acidity  and the sweetness typical of this style of wine.

Groupthink seemed to take over and the consensus was a well developed and deftly-executed menu of world fare complemented by a bevvy selection of new world loveliness and American classics.

A couple of chilled, but totally unnecessary, post-prandial Veuves in the Champagne Bar rounded out a quite fabulous evening of dining and chum-making.  Next evening the group staged an impromptu reprise by re-forming in Cascades, the main dining venue, to share another Radiance feast with Royal Caribbean Sales Manager, Peter McCormack.

 

 

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