Oman

My introduction to Doha was a half-day guided city tour showcasing the sea-front Corniche,  Dhow Harbour , The Old Souq (Market),  Equestrian Club,  Falcon Market, Fruit and Vegetable Market, Fish Market, Traditional Market and the city Centre Mall.

Thoughts of Doha were overall positive, but qualified. I concluded that Doha is a “Work in Progress”; clean, but a little sterile, and probably not a serious destination in its own right. Probably a one or two-day visit at most would tick off all the Doha ‘must-see’ boxes. After the tour I returned to the Premium terminal to enjoy the luxury facilities before departing for Muscat, Oman on QR 164.

Muscat

Muscat is a cluster of white buildings and gold minarets set against a backdrop of jagged brown mountains that fold around it like a comforting blanket. It has defiantly maintained its old-world character and charm, but pampered parks, gardens and nature strips contradict its desert heritage.

Muscat and the commercial centre of Muttrah are twin towns separated by 2km of sweeping coast road. The Corniche, with its promenade, makes it possible to walk from Muscat to Muttrah with its famous souk (market) and vibrant trading activity. The Sultan of Oman is an avid environmentalist with a particular aversion to visual pollution. As a result, he has limited buildings in the capital to nine storeys, which keeps historic forts, castles, mosques and towers prominent on the skyline.

The day started with an early visit to the Grand mosque, getting in before the crowds arrive. Finished in 2002, the Grand Mosque stands proudly looking out over Muscat. It’s home to one of the largest Swarovski Crystal Chandeliers in the world as well as the largest one piece hand stitched Persian carpet in the world.  After leaving the Grand Mosque we  moved straight to Muttrah Souk, and wandered around the market with the scent of ancient Frankincense “the perfume of the god’s” in the air. Muttrah Souk is generally regarded as the most atmospheric of any on the Arabian Peninsula. Its labyrinth of alleyways exudes a deep Arabian mystery as well as a heady aroma of exotic perfumes and aromatic spices. Dusty shafts of light also reveal the usual cheap market tat ranging from daggy to Disney. Think: vinyl shoes, fluorescent T-shirts, American baseball caps and cutesy toys.  Haggling urges fulfilled, we then made our way to the Oman Museum, and the Al Alam Palace flanked by the ancient Forts of Mirani Jalali built by the Portuguese during their reign in Oman.

A long, languid lunch  at the fabulous Chedi Muscat. Omani cuisine is a creole concoction with a Portuguese influences and a heavy leaning to sub-continental ingredients due to the large number of Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan guest workers. Lunch kicked off with the traditional Omani welcome of dates and kahwa – an intense coffee brew flavoured with cardamon and salty buttermilk. The banquet was a procession of seasoned and marinated lamb and chicken balanced with kebabs and mildish curries accompanied with rice and rukhal – an unleavened bread that seems to be ubiquitous throughout the Sultanate.

The following morning we met our guides and boarded 4WDs for the drive north into the Hajar  (stone) mountains – Oman’s historical heart and latter-day adventure capital. The drive proved to be an adventure in itself; our guides and drivers beaming as we barrelled along the mountain roads at break-neck speed.

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